Athy native puts a modern twist on traditional grub
Athy native Graham Herterich
Athy native Graham Herterich has returned with a follow-up to his debut cookbook, but with a savoury spin this time.
Published by Nine Bean Rows and with contributions by Ali Dunworth, Dee Laffan and Kate Ryan, the eye-catching 224-page hardcover book takes a fun, honest look at the food that makes us uniquely Irish.
explores the unique way we eat in Ireland, from the five mealtimes of breakfast, lunch, dinner, tea and supper to particular Irish things such as tea and biscuits, the ‘mammy salad’ and a Tayto sandwich. Drawing inspiration from Graham’s childhood growing up over the family butcher shop in Athy, there’s also a chapter dedicated to pork and bacon dishes.
Cherished Irish classics such as the chicken fillet roll and the uniquely Irish combo of lasagne, coleslaw and chips all feature alongside modern versions updated with the flavours and ingredients available to us now.
“Writing my first book unleashed a myriad of childhood food memories, many of which were sweet bakes and ended up featuring in . Many were savoury, though, and that is how was born,” Graham explained. “Having a mum [Ann] who is a fabulous cook and growing up above our family pork butcher shop in Athy has massively influenced my second book. Once again, I have taken traditional Irish dishes and followed them up with a modern twist, and as with , many of these modern versions are inspired by my love of travel and fascination with spices.”
Athy and the family’s roots in the town feature throughout this beautiful book, which is dedicated to the author’s dad and the life Graham had growing up at Number 4 Duke Street. A lovely two-page section at the beginning, for example, takes the reader on a visual stroll up Duke Street – with familiar names like Coyle’s, Perry’s Supermarket, Shaws, The Gem and, of course, Herterich’s.
Memories are shared through various recipes. Graham recalls that growing up in Athy there was no central heating and the house was quite cold during winter, but his mum ensured they were warm going to bed. His favourite warm drink was always hot milk and honey.
The Herterichs came to Ireland via Bavaria in Germany. Graham’s great-grandfather George went into business in Naas in 1926 and his grandfather Ernie began trading as Herterich’s Butchers on Duke Street in Athy in early 1942. Ernie died in 1967, aged just 53, from a brain tumour. His son Paul – Graham’s father – who apprenticed with him from the age of 16 after he left school barely had two years working alongside him.
The shop was part of the fabric of the community in Athy. As the book recounts, ‘both Paul and Ernie prided themselves on never seeing anyone go without. If someone asked for six chops instead of enough to feed the 10 mouths known to be at home, in would go what was needed. Nobody was left wanting for anything’.
Graham, who trained as a chef and runs a retail store in Rialto in Dublin, explained that he was one of the last babies born in Athy. He was premature – the maternity ward at St Vincent’s Hospital had closed a couple of weeks earlier “but because of a bit of an emergency, I was actually delivered up in the hospital.” He did “pocket money work” in the shop growing up and lived above the butchers for 20 years.
“It was a great place to grow up,” he told me. “Our bedrooms looked out onto the square, so it was like our own private view of all these people pulling up in Shaws car park… I used to sit in the window for hours wondering what everybody was up to.” Graham’s parents still live out in Barrowhouse, so he’d be home at least once a month. His latest book will provide plenty of inspiration for meals, and it’s quite easy on the eye too – an eye-catching front cover, lots of vibrant colours, and plenty of hunger-inducing photos.
As for his favourite traditional Irish dish? “My mammy’s Irish stew with mashed potatoes and a pint of milk. My absolute favourite!”
is available in all good bookshops and many independent retailers around the country as well as online at ninebeanrowsbooks.com. A book launch will be held in Athy Library from 6.30-7.30pm on Tuesday 17 September.
